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Which is another recurring thing, when I can’t differentiate between creating a scenario and dreaming it.” This time, the nightmare was so bad that it felt like I was awake thinking about it, rather than asleep and dreaming. It’s a recurring theme: I’m up against something uncomfortable or difficult, and just as I feel like I’m making some progress, there’s an end to the dream that says no, you’re not getting anywhere, you have to start over. “I went to my shrink - it was a Wednesday morning - and I felt like I was having such a panic attack. “I was terrified last week,” he says when I ask how he’s sleeping. The company is allegedly, finally, going public within the next several months, which means the designer famous for changing his mind with the seasons may soon be bound by expectations not for newness but for quarterly earnings. (Imagine her now: “Don’t you think it would be a good idea if we did away with last names altogether?”) To industry observers, the show was both a dramaturgic triumph and a commercial departure from his on-trend yet offbeat sensibility: an announcement that “Marc Jacobs” means serious business. This past February, Marc entered his fourth decade on the runway with a fall collection of after-eight wear in every available shade of “deep,” littered with minks and sequins and inspired by Diana Vreeland’s memos. Twenty-four years before that, in 1984, a 21-year-old Marc met a 30-year-old Robert, who became his business partner and best friend for life.
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If Marc isn’t a fan of the full introduction, it’s partly because he hasn’t needed one since at least 2008, when Page Six made him a fixture and the New Yorker profiled him for a second time. Just say, ‘Hi, I’m Caitlyn.’ ‘Hi, I’m Marc.’ It’s not like, ‘I’m Marc, homosexual Jew from New York.’ ” He laughs. “I think it was after the Caitlyn Jenner thing,” he says, folding himself into a snail-colored sofa, “and I just said, like, can we just start calling people by their name? You know, not what they do for a living, not what their sexual preference is, not their age, not who they’re related to. In fact, he is bored with most ways of being identified. They put a picture of you, and like, who you wrote for. “I thought it was so strange this morning,” says Marc, who is not going to say anything stranger than the fact that he’s actually 52, “but Nick said, ‘I left you a folder with Sarah, a picture of Sarah,’ and I was like, ‘Why, so I wouldn’t let someone else in the building?’ But no, the press office just did it. He looks 38 or 39 and is definitely Jewish, but maybe he could also be Greek. He has a housekeeper (“This is Reisa”) and a personal chef (“This is Lauren”), but he answers the door of his West Village townhouse himself, at least when reporters come over. So there’s still a win to be had.HI, I’M MARC,” says a smiling, shortish, muscular man in a very white shirt and black trousers with even whiter socks. While we can’t guarantee that Jacobs will be working the pop-up again, you can shop the entire line at 59 Greene Street.
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But the party also featured DJ sets by No Vacancy and performances from Tierra Whack and Kiddy Smile, plus ice-cream sandwiches from Morgenstern’s and buttery lobster rolls with tator tots. Of course, having one of America’s most famous designers putting stuff in a bag for you was the highlight of the night. Dressed in a fringe jacket accessorized with nail art featuring Snoopy and Lucy and a scarf from his new line, he showed a customer the extra features of the sweater and wrapped it up in tissue paper. “Was someone helping you this evening?” he asked a customer buying a blue sweater. Behind the counter of the new store on Greene Street, ringing up sales, was Jacobs himself. Last night, Marc Jacobs (the person) celebrated the launch of The Marc Jacobs (the diffusion line and pop-up shop) with a Soho block party offering Casamigos margaritas and the chance to buy merch featuring the New York Magazine logo and the beloved Peanuts characters. Say what you will about Marc Jacobs, but he’s committed to the bit. Photo: Dimitrios Kambouris/Getty Images for Marc Jacobs